hot last weekend to work on the Cobra, so had a rest and thought
about the oil pressure problem a bit more, also there
seemed to be a problem with No4 , the spark plug keeps fouling
badly with oil, can anything else go wrong !!.
I made up a guide for the clutch cable, it had started to rub
on the edge of the bell housing so I made a plate with
a rubber grommet in the middle which bolted across the entrance
hole in the bell housing. Then also made a guide out of copper
pipe to ensure the cable passed through the exhaust manifolds
with touching anywhere.
now to replace the oil pump, the new oil pump also came fitted
with the new style Rover Oil pressure switch, so left
that in place as my ETB oil pressure gauge is a combined oil
pressure transducer and switch, (it also fitted in the other
hole). Removed the old pump, filled with Vaseline ,(again getting
good at this now), then removed the dizzy and spun the pump up
with the electric drill. Bugger it , still very little oil pressure
!!, this cannot be everything has been replaced. The oil light
only goes out when revved and the pressure only reaches 8 psi
max, on tick over the oil light is on constantly, and this is
with cold oil. In desperation I moved the oil pressure switch
wire over to the new Rover switch, and guess what, no problem
the oil light goes out as soon as the engine starts turning over
and stays out until stopped, despite the gauge reading little
or no pressure. So it looks as if my sender unit is duff. A check
in the rocker cover shows plenty of oil reaching the tappets.
So all this time and there always was pressure, just a fault
sender unit. I rang ETB who suggested the sender was blocked
and would send me another one a.s.a.p.
was feeling much better now but remembered the problem with
No4 plug, so further investigation needed. I checked the timing
with my new timing light, (thanks Tim), and tried to adjust the
mixture but the right hand bank of cylinders would not run right,
this was obviously because of No4 playing up. Removing the plug
revealed a very wet oily plug. Hmmm, perhaps there was no spark,
checked that , plenty of spark, so starting to get worried I
borrowed a compression tester. To my great disappointment all
cylinders were fine except No4 , hardly anything at all !!,
oh dear looks like a ring has broke S**t.
preparation for the engine strip down I removed the rocker
cover, and to my delight saw that No 4 rocker arm, (inlet)
snapped completely in half !, so the valve was not opening at
all, no wonder the pressure was low, no air or fuel getting in
on the suction stroke, easy to fix and the rocker arm only costs
now in a better frame of mind I started on the boot lid, first
out with the angle grinder to trim all the excess flash
by the time I had finished I looked like one of those old ladies
just after a 'blue rinse', the stuff gets everywhere, (unfortunately
I did this in the back garden and go some on the wife's washing
Next the boot catch, a bit scary drilling my first holes in
the body parts, still very carefully I drilled all the relevant
and catch, it looked quite good.
The new rocker arm arrived the next day long with a new post,
(I bust one of the old ones trying to get it off !), and a new
shaft, (I bent that as well !). All went together well and solved
my missing problem, sounds great now all 8 are firing.
boot seems to fit quite well, so it was simple enough to
fit the two hinges, the hinges require 2 off 5/16 UNC and 4
1/4" UNC, nuts not included with the hinges. I tried fitting
the rubber door trim from a Sierra but it proved to be too
thick and cumbersome stopping the boot from fitting very well.
probably use http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/ to
sort something out.
The number plate light also simple enough to fit.
for the bonnet, first I sanded down all the extra 'flash' around
the edges with the grinder and finished of with the sander.
The air scoop hole took a bit longer, the only way I could cut
out the hole was to chain drill around the edges then use a hacksaw
blade to cut the majority of the fibreglass out. A file finished
off the job.
the body off, (the wife is developing here biceps nicely now),
I crawled underneath with the bonnet in position,(held
in place with masking tape), then positioned the hinges. The
glassed in mounts were spread outwards
to be bent into position, then with the fixing plates in place
I marked the fixing holes on the bonnet. There are two holes
for fixing the hinge I found that I had to use the front hole
else the fixing plate would miss flat fixing area on the bonnet,
(behind which is a metal plate glassed in).
with the bonnet and now the scary bit, drilling the fixing
holes but though the inner skin and metal plate only, without
'bursting' through the outer skin of the bonnet !. I played safe
and taped a few nuts up the drill shaft leaving only just enough
problems and back on with the bonnet. With the brackets fixed
to the bonnet it was time to see if the bonnet opened properly.
Nope.. the front lip kept catching on the body stopping the
bonnet opening, I had to raise the front up a bit on the hinges,
this then allowed the bonnet to open but spoilt the lay of the
bonnet. Then I discovered the bonnet cannot open very far as
the hinge fouls on the body. Looking in the Pilgrim brochure
I noticed they had cut a couple of slots in the body for the
hinge to clear. Out with the hacksaw and all was well.
is obviously going to take a few attempts and slight adjustments
to get the bonnet to open and fit nicely , I have yet to fit
the rubber seal and bolt the body down, all which will affect
the fit. While the body was off I also drilled out the clearance
holes for the top seatbelt mounts, and fitted 7/16 UNC bolts,
also the two holes for the seatbelt inertia reels.
fitted the two 'T' bar catches for the bonnet, deciding where
they should go was simple enough as there is a flat area
on the bonnet underside. I used the cams as a measurement from
underneath the mark the hole positions, ensured they were equidistant
from the center and drilled a couple of pilot holes. I will used
some stainless angle fixed the the scuttle bulkhead for the cams
to locate on. Slowly opening out the holes with a round file
until the catches fitted took about an hour.
the first job I decided to adjust the bonnet fit whilst on
the body was
on the chassis, no problem really and I found
that it is quite easy to get at the two fixing points under the
nose. Some small adjustments were made and the bonnet now ‘lies’ quite
well. This will do until I fit the rubber seal.
I did not like the idea of the two bonnet catches just being
secured into the fibreglass skin of the bonnet, so I made up
some small spacers from tube to fit between the two skins, and
then passed small bolts all the way through both skins. Nice
and secure and much stronger, I also used a grommet to tidy up
the inside skin hole.
now wanted to start fitting lights thus enabling me to further
electrics. However this meant removing the flash line
around the relevant area’s. I had been worried about how
to successfully get rid of the flash lines so decided test the
theory on an area I would be removing, ie the middle of the headlight
first rubbed the flash lines down with 1200 wet and dry, using
a bit of
600 on the stubborn ‘lumps’ of gelcoat.
Without too much effort the flash lines rubbed down very well.
Now I had a nice flat, smooth but very dull area.
I used G10 rubbing compound and a polisher, then G10 . The
was better than I expected and gave me the confidence
to have a go at a ‘proper’ area, ie the areas around
the Headlight and indicators. Using the same principle I am very
pleased with the result, the flash lines have completely disappeared.
It is quite a laborious, messy and boring job removing the flash
lines so I intend to remove the flash a bit at a time, just in
the areas I am working at the time. So having cleaned up around
the headlight and indicator I decided to fit them both.
The rubber seal served as a template for the headlight hole,
two minutes later with the jigsaw and the hole was ready. The
headlight is simple enough to fit and comes with all the required
fitting screws. The indicator fitted even easier , the overall
effect is quite nice.